Monthly Archives: November 2012

A New Normal

There is no pretense about being James Herriot here, but with all of the creatures great and small running around us it sometimes feels like I should be writing a few animal tales. Two boys constantly getting into mischief only adds to the surreal zoo-like feeling. In the span of a week and a half we encountered ten different kinds of animals. Adding bees, termites, and way too many mosquitos to the list gives the impression that we live outdoors in some sort of animal habitat rather than an apartment in the city. The typical scenes of cows, sheep, goats, and dogs playing in the road has gone from initial excitement to mundane. While it is still cute to see a kid playing in the street it also provides another challenge for driving. I did see a man walking his goat on a leash the other day but usually the creatures huddle by the side of the road working up the courage to cross and see what’s on the other side. It’s all part of what we call normal.

A daily part of normal is a mother cat and her three kittens. These mangy creatures live somewhere in the bushes next to where I park our van. I have nothing against cats and actually enjoy the feline as a pet, but I would prefer they not walk all over our van with their little muddy paws. Or at least wait until the rainy season is finished. Evidence suggests that the kittens are using the windshield as a slip-and-slide and are thoroughly enjoying themselves. I know they are not just in migration since one of our neighbors, most likely a member of PETA, is feeding them. I wonder if the animal lover also participates in the nightly “fight club” that neighboring cats attend. I’m sure it’s the food that attracts them to the venue, but you never know, it could be purely for sport. Benjamin also enjoys the cats from a distance but mainly he is fascinated with playing with the “little rocks” that he finds strewn about by the messy little kitties. However, he’s more fond of playing in the flower planter he calls a sandbox. The cats call it their toilet.

Saw another camel the other day along the side of the road. I guess I still can’t get over my stereotypes of camels playing in the sand. There’s something about a camel with a lush green forest in the background that seems out-of-place in my mind. But if you think about it stereotypes are not very accurate sources of information anyway. In any event the camel and it’s “master” were having a tug of war next to the road. It appeared as if the master wanted the camel to mingle with the automobiles while the camel wanted to make a break for the trees. Stubbornness could be seen on both sides and persistence seemed to be their sole attribute. The boys and I couldn’t stop to see how the battle progressed but my money is on the camel. After all, camels spit.

Donkeys have long been a beast of burden in Kenya. Loaded with heavy bundles they dutifully plod alongside the road taking their goods to market. With man’s invention of the cart it means the donkey can carry four times as much. Add another donkey to the cart and the load seems to go up exponentially. I don’t see donkeys complain too much, but then again I haven’t heard then singing praises either. So a few days ago when I heard angry shouting amid giddy laughter I naturally took notice. The driver was whipping and screaming from on top of the cart and was doing all he could to stay standing. Picture cart surfing if you will, and yes, he hit the big wave. While the driver was plummeting towards certain injury three tethered donkeys ran by dragging their symbol of domestication….laughing. While the young middle donkey ran by braying something that sounded like “carpe’ diem”, I’m sure I heard the other two singing the praise song, “I’m Trading My Sorrows.” Score one for the donkeys.

My wife kissed a giraffe. Not sure how I feel about this yet.

Went to church a few Sundays ago to discover that there were some new attendees. A mother was bringing her child to Sunday School and another family was making its way to the main doors. I couldn’t help myself, I stared at them. They saw me standing there with my mouth open in disbelief and moved on towards the larger gathering of people. I had seen them before but it still surprised me to see them at church. I try not to judge but I was in disbelief. Although I am trying to dispel my stereotypes of Africa this morning at church seemed to fit everything I had imagined prior to stepping foot in Kenya. In fact even now I still can’t shake the feeling of the moment. My father and uncle had lived in West Africa for several years working with the Peace Corps and had told me stories as a child. However, I am now living in East Africa and am trying not to fall victim to their stories, untold numbers of books I have read, and my cultural stereotypes that my imagination uses to run wild. On that Sunday as I stood their with my mouth open it all fell apart. It was simply too much. I actually felt  like I lived in that far off place called “Africa.” I stood there taking in Swahili praise songs full of rhythm and high in energy, thick vegetation in numerous shades of green dripping with moisture all around, bright colorful flowers in picture perfect bloom, air thick with the scent of fresh rain, and a family of monkeys jumping from tree to tree on their way to the main doors of church. They were no doubt Holy Monkeys in search of spiritual food. I’m sure the other mother at the gates of the Sunday School was not able to leave her offspring in one of the classes though. It’s kind of  a shame really. Can you imagine the joy the children would have if they were able to play with a baby monkey at church? My boys already think and behave as if they are monkeys. What harm could one more monkey do at Sunday School?

There are birds that swoop down and steal food from students’ lunch trays at school. If you’ve seen the Alfred Hitchcock movie “The Birds” then you have a picture of what lunchtime is like at WNS… Student steps out from underneath protective grass hut like covering, black birds come swooping down, student runs away screaming… Perhaps this is where Hitchcock found his inspiration. These birds, Black Kites or Milvus Migrans to be specific, are part of the raptor family, are omnivorous, and large enough for even high school boys to be wary of. From their graceful method of food collection I think they fit their name well. Students, seemingly considering this part of their “normal”, have adapted quickly to the regular ambushes but still fall victim to the cunning bird and its quest for food. Personally I’d like to see what a Kite can do with a bowl of soup but it’s not on the menu any time soon. I see them around our apartment too. I haven’t worked out a complete game plan for what to do when the boys and I are eating lunch on the balcony and they come visiting, but so far the Kites around our apartment are polite and respectful, unlike the WNS Kites that bring fear and trembling.

Driving down a dusty road last week I saw a sheep jump out of the back of a moving pick-up truck. I think he was anxious about his future. His suicidal leap was most likely all about fear of the unknown. We have plenty of our own “unknowns” living here but when your “normal” consists of creatures and other oddities it really helps to see life simply as being full of variety. My own leap has been based upon faith rather than fear but there are times when I’m sure I can understand the sheep’s point of view. I also saw a van full of goats. The driver, he was human, had taken the seats out of the van and strapped them on top of the vehicle with a very large bag of charcoal. The dozen or so goats in the van were on their way somewhere, most likely unknown to them, but had faith in something. They were as calm as a van full of goats could be. I’m thinking they had placed their faith in the human, instead of The Divine, and were off to a large BBQ.

I could go on with little vignettes and tales of creatures that are part of our life in Kenya but it all leads me back to that old question of “What is normal?” This is part of our new normal. It isn’t something that will make headlines in the news but it is something that is shaping who we are. In fact Benjamin completely believes that he will see a lion any day now. Why not? He saw an elephant and has fed giraffes on several occasions. One of the students that attends WNS had a lion roam through their housing compound not long ago. Simba (the lion) wandered in from the wildlife reservation and caused a lock-down and probably quite a few hearts to beat a little quicker. Some people grow up thinking a concrete jungle is normal while others believe having space around their house is normal. Benjamin and Michael are growing up thinking all of this is normal. It will be interesting to see what stereotypes they will need to overcome.

Categories: Reflections, Through a Toddler's Lens | 1 Comment

A Gentle-man

I would like to introduce you to Cedric. I really like him. He is one of the workers at West Nairobi School and unlike many of my former students, he doesn’t think I am old. Even after he heard my age his belief in my youth did not waver. He reasoned that old people talk a lot and since I have not been overly talkative I must not be old. I think I’m hearing groans from former students who have “suffered” through an English class or two with me right about now. Whenever I see Cedric I am uplifted by his initial comment.  Did I mention that I really like him? We all know it’s nice to be around positive people, but there is more to Cedric than being nice to an aging man.

Cedric, like many educated in Kenya, is only able to find a basic service job. With Kenya’s unemployment rate at 50% and the secondary education rate much lower, Cedric is happy to have the job he does. In fact you can see this happiness as he cleans classrooms each afternoon. He is also at school in the morning to take care of any exciting things that may be waiting for teachers. Not too long ago my wife arrived at her classroom to discover the floor was crawling. Personally I think she was still asleep, but she assures me it was crawling. As I understand the events she walked up to her classroom door to discover hundreds of termites crawling at the base of the door. I think she screamed at this point in the story but she says that never happened. After some reflection on what to do Cedric was called to assist.

Upon opening the door the number of termites greatly increased. Apparently there was a calculus convention for these little creatures over the weekend and my wife, the teacher, was the last to know. Thousands of crawling creatures desperately trying to find freedom fearful the calculus book would be turned against them. I have the same calculus fear myself. I have always thought of termites in wood chewing away and leaving their larva behind for future destruction, but after moving to Kenya I now know they fly. It’s actually quite fascinating watching them fly around in a down pour looking for a dry place to stay. Think helter-skelter; perhaps that’s where the drivers get their inspiration. Again, I imagine there was a scream, a loud gasp, or at least a muffled cry, especially as three birds flew into the room to assist Cedric in the clean up. Now with birds swooping down upon the colony, a man sweeping in from the perimeter and onlookers gawking, the termites really began to scramble for safety. All in all they put up a good fight but between the birds and Cedric they never really stood a chance. However, the truly sad thing was to see Cedric’s silent discouragement at not being able to save them for supper. Saut’eed, fried, or raw a delicacy for sure. The birds were spared but I’m sure they frequently return to see if there is a repeat performance.

Through incidents such as the termites, and just a few days ago he reached out his hands and caught  one of those returning birds in mid-flight, Cedric remains calm and collected. Due to the scarcity of jobs he only sees his wife on Saturdays. Due to the necessity of higher education he only sees his sister, who is in a boarding school, on rare occasions. Due to the struggle for daily survival he doesn’t see his parents as often as he wants to either. All in all Cedric and his family are a fairly typical Kenyan family working to make ends meet. While Kenya’s literacy rate for primary students is at 85% the secondary (high school) literacy rate for those finishing primary school hovers just over 70%. As you can imagine university is lower still. As one of the more educationally well off countries in Africa this is not the ideal situation.

According to a recent BBC report the countries of the world have agreed to make 2015 the year that every country has a 100% primary literacy rate. Driving the streets of Nairobi and seeing all of the children not in school this seems very ambitious. If this is ambitious for Kenya then I suppose that a miracle is needed for a few of Kenya’s neighbors such as Somalia and South Sudan. If you ask me this is not something to be calm and collective about, but no one has asked.

Among other places in the world, East Africa needs prayers. Stability is one thing but as one who teaches I honestly think that education, primary school up, is one of the most influential ways to change, develop, or destroy a country. Kenya has a presidential election this March and while people do not think there will be violence like what occurred after the last elections, prayers are certainly a must. While we’re at it we should remember Cedric. A gentle man amid frustrating circumstances. He is also positive and full of hope regardless of the chaos that flies around him. He and his wife are expecting their first child in February. Since they need two minimal incomes just to make ends meet right now he is not sure what things will look like after February. Based upon the uncertainty of birth and  the many other unknowns surrounding this time they are not talking and sharing too much. More things to pray about. Regardless of the uncertainty in his life, he remains positive and playful. Very uplifting to be around. Have a mentioned that I really like Cedric?

Categories: Reflections | 3 Comments

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